How do you condition leather garments?

Apply a thin coat of leather conditioner (beeswax-based or lanolin-based) using a soft cloth. Work in small circular sections. Allow 10–15 minutes for absorption, then buff the surface with a clean dry cloth. The leather should look nourished, not greasy. Repeat every three to six months, or more frequently in dry climates.

What do you do if leather gets wet in rain?

Blot — do not rub — excess moisture with a clean cloth. Stuff the specimen to maintain its shape and allow to dry at room temperature away from heat sources. Once fully dry, apply a light coat of conditioner to replace the oils displaced by the water. The leather will recover fully if heat is avoided during drying.

How do you remove mould from leather?

Mix equal parts rubbing alcohol and water. Apply with a soft cloth, wiping gently over the affected surface. Allow to dry fully. Apply leather conditioner once dry. Mould indicates the specimen was stored in insufficient airflow or with residual moisture. Ensure storage conditions are dry and ventilated going forward.

Does leather need to be waterproofed?

Full-grain leather has natural water resistance that conditioner maintains. Suede and nubuck benefit from a specialist water-repellent spray. Smooth leather conditioned regularly resists light rain without additional treatment. For sustained wet exposure, a beeswax-based waterproofing product applied after conditioning provides additional protection.

[ LEATHER ]

Care forleather.

What is this?: Full-grain and treated leather specimens require periodic conditioning and storage away from temperature extremes. They age rather than degrade.
Who is it for?: Anyone maintaining a leather specimen from the SOME DOSE catalogue or elsewhere.
What does it cost?: Reading time: approximately three minutes. No specialist equipment required for most steps.
How does it work?: Follow the steps in order. Consult the FAQ for edge cases. Check the material notes for context on why the fiber behaves as it does.

[ BRIEF ]

Background.

Leather is not a finished material in the conventional textile sense. It is a preserved organic substrate that continues to respond to its environment after manufacture. Dryness causes cracking. Excess moisture causes mould. Temperature extremes cause deformation.

The maintenance protocol is not demanding — but it must be consistent. A conditioned specimen develops patina. A neglected one cracks.

[ PROTOCOL ]

The steps.

01
Wipe clean after each wear
Use a slightly damp clean cloth to remove surface dust and moisture after wearing. Allow to air dry completely before storage. Never store damp leather.
02
Condition every three to six months
Apply a small amount of leather conditioner or neutral beeswax cream with a soft cloth. Work in circular motions. Allow the product to absorb for 10–15 minutes, then buff off any residue with a clean cloth. Do not over-condition — a thin coat is sufficient.
03
Air dry naturally
If the specimen becomes wet from rain or contact, stuff loosely with clean paper or a shoe tree (for footwear) to maintain shape, and dry at room temperature. Never apply direct heat.
04
Store in breathable covers
Store in a cotton dust bag or pillowcase. Never in plastic. Leather requires airflow to prevent mould in humid conditions. Keep stored specimens away from direct sunlight and heat sources.

[ DO NOT ]

Contraindications.

Do not submerge in water — causes irreversible drying and cracking once it dries.
Do not apply direct heat to dry wet leather — causes permanent deformation.
Do not store in plastic bags — traps moisture and encourages mould.
Do not use alcohol-based cleaners — strips the natural oils from the surface.
Do not use silicone-based polishes — seals the pores and prevents conditioning from penetrating.
Do not expose to prolonged direct sunlight — fades and desiccates the surface.

[ MATERIAL NOTES ]

Why it behaves this way.

Full-grain leather retains the outermost layer of the hide — the densest, most durable section. It develops a patina over time as the surface responds to oils, light, and handling. Corrected-grain leather has the surface sanded and coated — more uniform in appearance, less responsive to conditioning, shorter lifespan. SOME DOSE uses full-grain or top-grain materials where leather is specified.

[ FREQUENTLY ASKED ]

Common questions.

How do you condition leather garments?: Apply a thin coat of leather conditioner (beeswax-based or lanolin-based) using a soft cloth. Work in small circular sections. Allow 10–15 minutes for absorption, then buff the surface with a clean dry cloth. The leather should look nourished, not greasy. Repeat every three to six months, or more frequently in dry climates.
What do you do if leather gets wet in rain?: Blot — do not rub — excess moisture with a clean cloth. Stuff the specimen to maintain its shape and allow to dry at room temperature away from heat sources. Once fully dry, apply a light coat of conditioner to replace the oils displaced by the water. The leather will recover fully if heat is avoided during drying.
How do you remove mould from leather?: Mix equal parts rubbing alcohol and water. Apply with a soft cloth, wiping gently over the affected surface. Allow to dry fully. Apply leather conditioner once dry. Mould indicates the specimen was stored in insufficient airflow or with residual moisture. Ensure storage conditions are dry and ventilated going forward.
Does leather need to be waterproofed?: Full-grain leather has natural water resistance that conditioner maintains. Suede and nubuck benefit from a specialist water-repellent spray. Smooth leather conditioned regularly resists light rain without additional treatment. For sustained wet exposure, a beeswax-based waterproofing product applied after conditioning provides additional protection.

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Last updated: April 2026