How often should you wash denim?

Every 10–15 wears under normal conditions. For raw denim, the first wash is typically at 60–100 wears. Between washes, air the specimen overnight and spot clean as needed. The Levi's CEO famously cited 10 years as a reasonable interval — this is extreme, but the underlying principle is correct: less washing produces better results.

Will denim shrink if you wash it?

Cold wash and air dry minimises shrinkage. Hot water and tumble drying cause the most significant dimensional change. Most denim shrinks 3–5% in length and 1–2% in width after the first wash. Subsequent washes at cold temperature cause minimal further change. If buying raw denim, size up by one size to account for initial shrinkage.

How do you remove odour from denim without washing?

Hang outside in fresh air for 30–60 minutes, or place the folded specimen in a sealed bag with baking soda overnight. Some owners freeze denim — this kills bacteria responsible for odour without water contact. Airing is the most practical method for regular maintenance.

What is raw denim and how is it different to care for?

Raw denim — also called dry denim — has not been pre-washed. The fabric is stiff, the indigo is at maximum saturation, and the structure has not yet adapted to any body. The break-in period (60–100 wears before first wash) allows the fabric to crease and fade specifically according to how the wearer moves. Pre-washed denim has already been through this process industrially, producing a uniform result. Raw denim produces a unique result per wearer.

[ DENIM ]

Care fordenim.

What is this?: Raw or washed denim distresses according to use. Wash infrequently — the structure improves with wear, not with laundering.
Who is it for?: Anyone maintaining a denim specimen from the SOME DOSE catalogue or elsewhere.
What does it cost?: Reading time: approximately three minutes. No specialist equipment required for most steps.
How does it work?: Follow the steps in order. Consult the FAQ for edge cases. Check the material notes for context on why the fiber behaves as it does.

[ BRIEF ]

Background.

Denim is a warp-faced twill weave, most commonly cotton, designed to distress according to the body's specific movement patterns. This is a feature, not a degradation process. The fades and creases that develop over months of wear are unique to the wearer.

Frequent washing resets this process, softens the fabric uniformly, and reduces structural integrity. The correct protocol for raw denim in particular involves a long initial break-in period before the first wash.

[ PROTOCOL ]

The steps.

01
Break in before washing
Wear new denim for a minimum of 30 wears before the first wash. For raw (unwashed) denim, extend this to 60–100 wears. The initial patina sets according to your specific movement patterns during this period.
02
Turn inside out
Always wash denim inside out to protect the face of the fabric and reduce indigo bleeding. Cold water further reduces dye transfer.
03
Cold wash on delicate cycle or hand wash
Machine: cold water, delicate or denim cycle, mild detergent without optical brighteners. Hand: cold water soak for 30–45 minutes, gentle agitation, thorough rinse.
04
Air dry
Hang to dry or lay flat. Do not tumble dry — high heat shrinks the cotton and permanently softens the structure. Denim dried at room temperature retains its hand feel and structural integrity.
05
Spot clean between washes
For localised staining, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap rather than submitting the full garment to a wash cycle. This preserves the accumulated patina while addressing the specific contamination.

[ DO NOT ]

Contraindications.

Do not hot wash — causes significant shrinkage, particularly in the first few washes.
Do not tumble dry on high heat — permanently distorts the structure and shrinks the fabric.
Do not dry clean — solvent strips the indigo dye unevenly.
Do not use bleach — causes irreversible and uncontrolled dye removal.
Do not wash with light-coloured garments — indigo bleeds, particularly in early wears.
Do not iron wet denim — causes shine on the surface.

[ MATERIAL NOTES ]

Why it behaves this way.

Denim weave locks the warp threads (coloured, typically indigo) over two or more weft threads (natural). The face of the fabric is predominantly coloured; the reverse is predominantly natural. The indigo sits on the surface of the warp thread rather than penetrating to the core — this is why indigo fades through abrasion rather than through washing alone.

[ FREQUENTLY ASKED ]

Common questions.

How often should you wash denim?: Every 10–15 wears under normal conditions. For raw denim, the first wash is typically at 60–100 wears. Between washes, air the specimen overnight and spot clean as needed. The Levi's CEO famously cited 10 years as a reasonable interval — this is extreme, but the underlying principle is correct: less washing produces better results.
Will denim shrink if you wash it?: Cold wash and air dry minimises shrinkage. Hot water and tumble drying cause the most significant dimensional change. Most denim shrinks 3–5% in length and 1–2% in width after the first wash. Subsequent washes at cold temperature cause minimal further change. If buying raw denim, size up by one size to account for initial shrinkage.
How do you remove odour from denim without washing?: Hang outside in fresh air for 30–60 minutes, or place the folded specimen in a sealed bag with baking soda overnight. Some owners freeze denim — this kills bacteria responsible for odour without water contact. Airing is the most practical method for regular maintenance.
What is raw denim and how is it different to care for?: Raw denim — also called dry denim — has not been pre-washed. The fabric is stiff, the indigo is at maximum saturation, and the structure has not yet adapted to any body. The break-in period (60–100 wears before first wash) allows the fabric to crease and fade specifically according to how the wearer moves. Pre-washed denim has already been through this process industrially, producing a uniform result. Raw denim produces a unique result per wearer.

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Last updated: April 2026